Maser was drawn to Japanese cuisine, and he began working at Sushi Song in Deerfield Beach. Maser, 25, was raised in Stockholm, but he and his parents moved to South Florida, where they had a vacation home, six years ago. John Maser’s path to sushi was more circuitous. A wall near the sushi bar details the culinary anatomy of tuna, spotlighting which cuts come from which areas, and a sign near the kitchen reads, “Man who catch fly with chopstick accomplish anything.” The sushi bar is helmed by veteran chef Michihiro Hirano, a native of Japan. By day it is bright and airy, at night it is dark and sophisticated, with dark wood tables. The dining room is small (60 seats, including eight at the sushi bar) but not cramped. I made two unannounced visits, once for lunch and another for a late-night dinner, and left satisfied both times. The spicy conch and octopus salad ($14) at Phat Boy Sushi features thin slices of seafood and cucumber in a vibrant dressing spiked with togarashi red pepper. I’m usually averse to such busy rolls, but this one worked, with the buttery steak melding beautifully with the luscious tuna and salmon. The rib eye presents much better when sliced razor thin and rare atop the Samurai roll ($22), an unconventional mashup of fish on the inside (salmon, tuna and white fish) wrapped with onion, jalapeno and asparagus. It would be nice to have greater consistency, and I’d be willing to pay a few more bucks for better meat. On a later, announced visit for a photo shoot, the steak was more tender and properly medium rare. But the beef is not of the highest quality, with a few pieces leathery on my first visit and others sizzled to overdone. It is a delicious dish, sliced steak layered atop wispy enoki mushrooms and surrounded by a few blistered shishito peppers and grape tomatoes in a broth of soy, sake and butter. (Amy Beth Bennett / Sun Sentinel)īesides sushi, Phat Boy has sizzle - the rib eye tobanyaki ($14) is served in a skillet that bubbles and steams as it makes its way across the dining room. Ribeye tobanyaki ($14) at Phat Boy Sushi is a sizzling, satisfying platter of sliced steak, enoki mushrooms and blistered shishito peppers in a soy, sake and butter broth. For example, Katsu sliders ($12) were a recent lunch special, with crisp and crunchy chicken cutlet squares perched on small Martin’s potato rolls and garnished with julienne carrots and daikon that evoked the flavor of a Vietnamese banh mi sandwich.They were good.
The sushi is very good, but Phat Boy is notable for a menu that offers a range of grilled items, yakitori skewers, rice bowls, vegetarian options and specials that veer from hardcore Japanese ($6 slices of toro or $10 uni shooters) to comfort foods with an American twist. happy hour of bottomless hot sake for $10 and half-priced Sapporo drafts has been drawing a younger crowd.Īdd it up and there is much to like here, even for those who do not like raw fish. Phat Boy also has carved out a late-night niche, with its kitchen open nightly until midnight (and until 2 a.m. The new Phat Boy borders the affluent Rio Vista neighborhood and is close to the Broward County Courthouse and Broward School District headquarters, assuring lively lunch and takeout business.
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